Boat Maintenance and steering systems

Most production boats don't require much exterior maintenance. Fibreglass hulls have  gel coats which, if cared for, have a long life. Regularly using fresh water to wash off the salt helps to preserve the shine.

Occasionally, the hull topsides (the area between the waterline and deck) needs to be cleaned with  purpose-made rubbing compounds, and finished with wax polishes - a process not too different from maintaining your motor vehicle. With proper attention  gelcoats should last 10-15 years.

However, the closer you are to the tropics, the faster the degradation by UV (ultraviolet) light from the sun.

Some production boats have timber on deck. This is usually teak decks, which need little or no maintenance. (Bare teak decks will come to no harm, but they can be oiled or varnished.) Protect all other types of timber with at least five coats of marine varnishes.

Construction materials such as wood, steel and aluminium, can be maintained by coating them with hard-surface finishes (such as Awlgrip or International Paints) which responds to the same treatment as gelcoats on fibreglass hulls.

Hull repair

Dents in the hull are inevitable and should be repaired immediately. Timber boats are easy to repair if you have woodworking skills. Steel hulls and alloy hulls are rarely penetrated, although they can be dented. Dents can simply be filled, faired up and repainted.

For small dents, the correct fillers and touch-up materials can usually be obtained from a DIY store or fibreglass retailer. In. the case of major damage however, it is better to claim from insurance and have the hull professionally repaired. Even if the hull has been penetrated (hopefully above the waterline), the experts should be able to repair it.

Electrolysis

Electrolysis occurs wherever different metals occur in close proximity. It is the chemical reaction that takes place between dissimilar metals where an electrical current flows across them as a result of immersion in salt water.

Hulls and skin fittings are particularly affected. Electrolysis can be prevented by using anodes (small plates made from a metal that corrodes easily). When these are attached to the hull, they corrode first, thereby preserving the actual fittings.

There is a scale for determining what anodes to use according to the amount of wear caused by electrolysis. If you are buying a second-hand boat, get a marine surveyor to check for this. It may be necessary to withdraw keel bolts in order to check properly.

Steering systems

The most simple and reliable steering systems sailboats can have is a tiller, but this is best suited to boats under about 12m (40ft). After that, it gets too cumbersome and the power needed to move it can be fierce.

Tillers are normally attached at the top of a rudder shaft by means of a lifting fitting, which allows the helmsman to stand up and lift the tiller for close quarters manoeuvering.

Most yachts over 12m (40ft) have a wheel that is driven either by a cable connected to a quadrant on the rudder shaft or by a hydraulic system. Wheel systems developed for racing craft can be very sensitive. and a wheel with moderate feel is ideal for the average cruising yacht. (Try to avoid a real `clunker' of a system with little feel to it.)

Boat Steering systems can and do go wrong, so make sure you know how yours works and that all the components are accessible. This particularly applies to production yachts where there is a tendency to hide everything behind joinery work and panels so as not to spoil the accommodation.

All wheel steering installations should have some form of emergency steering, usually by means of a tiller fitted at the rudder head. Before setting off on a long cruise, ensure yours is in working order and that you know how to operate it.